Chamba district General information
Chamba is the northwestern district of Himachal Pradesh, in India, with its headquarters in Chamba town. The towns of Dalhousie and Khajjhiar are popular hill stations and vacation spots for the people from the plains of northern India.
1903 map of Punjab (British India) showing the boundaries of Chamba princely state.
Chamba is one of the oldest Princely states in India, having been founded during the late 6th century. It is situated in the bosom of the Himalaya Mountains, and the boundaries are as follows: On the north-west and west, Jammu and Kashmir; on the north-east and east, Ladakh, Lahaul and Bara Bangahlaa; on the south-east and south, the districts of Kangra and Gurdaspur. The Ravi river flows through this district, and many hydroelectric generating stations have been developed here.
History
Chamba is bounded on north-west by Jammu and Kashmir, on the north-east and east by Ladakh area of Jammu and Kashmir state and Lahaul and Bara-Bangal area of Himachal Pradesh, on the south-east and south by the District Kangra of Himachal Pradesh and Gurdaspur District of the Punjab.
The Chamba District is situated between north latitude 32° 11? 30? and 33° 13? 6? and east longitude 75°49 and 77° 3? 30?, with an estimated area of 6528 square Kilometers and is surrounded on all sides by lofty hill ranges. The territory is wholly mountainous with altitude ranging from 2,000 to 21,000 feet.
Regarding the early history of this region it is believed that this area was at time inhabited by certain Kolian tribes, which were later, subjugated by the Khasas. The Khasas too after a time came under the sway of Audumbaras (2nd centaury B.C.). The Audmabaras had republican form of government and worshiped Shiva as their principal deity. From the Gupta period (4th Centaury A.D.) the Chamba region was under the control of Thakurs and Ranas who considered themselves superior to the low tribes of Kolis and Khasas. With the rise of Gurjara Pratiharas ((7th Centaury A.D.) the Rajput Dynasties came to power.
In circa 500 A.D., a legendry hero called Maru migrated to north-west from Kalpagrama (a mythical place from where majority of the Rajput dynasties claim their descent) and founded Brahamputra (Bharmour) in the valley of the Budhal river, seventy five kilometer to the east of present Chamba town. His successors continued to rule over the country from that capital city for over three hundred years until Sahilla Varman shifted his capital from Brahamputra to the more centrally located plateau in the lower Ravi valley. He named the town after his beloved daughter Champa. His rani voluntarily offered herself as a scarifies to bring water for the town’s people through a running channel which takes origin at a place called Bhalota. The layout of the plan of Chamba seems to be in conformity with the ancient texts. From then on the rajas of Chamba continued to rule from here in an uninterrupted and direct line of descent.
Chamba is the only state in northern India to preserve a well-documented history from circa 500 A.D. Its high mountain ranges have given it a sheltered position and helped in preserving its centuries old relics and numerous inscriptions. The temples erected by rajas of Chamba more than a thousand years age continue to be under worship and the land grant-deeds executed on copper plates by them continue to be valid under the law.
The Muslims never invaded Chamba, though it had its occasional fights with the neighboring states in the hills having similar cultural background. Thus, the damage to Chamba from these invasions was seldom serious and never beyond the possibility of repair. Even the powerful Mughals were kept at bay on account of difficulties involved in communications and long distances. Akbar tried to extend a loose control over the hill states including Chamba and attached fertile tracts of these states to the imperial territory south of Dhauladhar. Aurangzeb once issued orders to the Raja of Chamba Chatter Singh (1664-1694AD) to pull down the beautiful temples of Chamba. But instead the raja in clear defiance to the Mughal ruler placed glided pinnacles on the temples. He was ordered to come down to Delhi to face the imperial wrath. But Aurangzeb himself had to leave for the Deccan from where he could not disentangle till the end of his life. On the whole, the northern India experienced comparatively peaceful condition during the Mughal regime Raja Prithvi Singh (1641-1664 AD), a handsome and a gallant knight was favourite of Shahjahan and visited the imperial court many times. He introduced the Mughal style of court life including Mughal-Rajput art and architecture in Chamba.
By the last quarter of 18th centaury the Sikhs forced the hill states to pay tribute to them. Maharaja Ranjit Singh systematically deposed the hill prices including the more powerful Kangra ruler Sansar Chand Katoch but spared Chamba in lieu of the services Wazir Nathu (of Chamba) had rendered him on two occasions. In 1809 A.D. the Wazir had made himself useful to the Maharaja by negotiating his agreement with Raja Sansar Chand Katoch, of Kangra. Again in A.D.1817 he had saved Ranjit Singh’s life by offering his horse at a critical moment during formers winter campaign in Kashmir. After Ranjit Singh’s death Chamba became un-protected and was drawn into the vortex of the disintegration of the Sikh Kingdom. The Sikh army invaded the British territory in A.D. 1845 and the troops of Sikh army, which were stationed in Chamba, were with drawn. When Sikh’s were defeated it was decided to merge Chamba in Jammu and Kashmir but on account of the timely intervention of Wazir Bagha (of Chamba) it was taken under the British control and subjected to the annual tribute of 12,000 rupees. The Raja’s who saw something of British hegemony were Sri Singh, Gopal Singh, Sham Singh, Bhuri Singh, Ram Singh and laxman Singh. Their relations with the British political officers seem to be cordial and Chamba witnessed many reforms.
On 15th April 1948 merging three principal states formed A.D. Himachal…. Chamba, Mandi-Suket, Sirmour and all the other state falling in Shimla hills.
Before Raja Sahilla Varman came on the same the Chamba region was divided into bits and pieces of territory called Rahnu occupied by numerous Ranas and petty Chieftains who carried on relentless warfare with each other. Raja Sahilla Verman subjugated the Ranas and unified the territory. Rajas, therefore, for better administration divided Chamba into five zones known as Mandlas. These Mandlas were later reamed as Wizarats. This five fold division of Chamba region continues till today. The Wizarats are now called Tehsils. These are Bharmour, Chamba, Bhattiyat, Churah and Pangi.
Location
Situated between north latitude 32° 11? 30? and 33° 13? 6?, and east longitude 75°49?and 77° 3? 30? with J&K on the north-west and west; Lahaul and Bara Bhangal on the north-east and east; District of Kangra on the south-east; district of Gurdaspur (Punjab) on the south .
Area
6,528 sq. km. (11.72% of HP)
Elevation
The district is wholly mountainous with elevation ranging from 2000 to 21000 ft.
Climate
Ranges from semi-tropical to semi-arctic.
Places of interest
Chaugan
The Chaugan is the heart and hub center of all activity in Chamba. According to Dr. J. Hutchison, “ The town is built on two terraces. On the lower is the Chaugan a fine grassy sward, about a half a mile long by eighty yards broad. Tradition is silent as to its use as a polo ground and the name is etymologically distinct from Chaugan, the Persian name of Polo, being of Sanskrit origin and meaning ‘four-sided; Besides being a public promenade and recreation-ground, the Chaugan was utilized for State Darbars and sports”.
These large spaces are unique of their vastness in a hill station. Initially the five Chaugans were a single patch of meadow which was used for purpose mentioned above. In the 1890 the leveling of chaugan was done. It become a public promenade and Cricket ground for the British. Annual Minjar Mela is held in the Chaugan when most of it is converted into a Bazaar. Local people including men, women and children can be seen promenading in the chaugan till late night. During summer many families bring food from home to chaugan and dine in open air. A large number of people can also be seen sleeping during night in the chaugan. Gaddies with their dears can also be seen camping on the outsidrats of this beautiful public promenade. Chaugan is closed for public after Dushera to April to carryout maintenance.
Laxmi Narayan Temple
Laxmi Narayan Temple, which is the main temple of Chamba town was built by Sahil Verman in the 10th century A.D. The temple has been built in the Shikhara style.
The temple consist of Bimana i.e. Shikhara and Garbhgriha with a small antralya. Laxmi Narayan Temple has a Mandapa like structure also. The wooden Chhattries, the wheel roof, atop the temple were in response to the local climatic conditions as a protection against snow-fall.
There are several other temples within this complex. The temple know as Radha Krishan was erected as late as 1825 A.D. by Rani sarda, queen of Raja Jeet Singh. The Shiva temple of Chandergupta was also believed to have been built by Sahil Verman while the construction of Gauri Shankar Temple is ascribed to his son and successor Yugkar Varman.
The temple of Lakshmi Narayana continued to be embellished by the Rajas who succeeded to the throne of Chamba. Raja Balabhadra Verma perched the metallic image of Garuda on a high pillar at the main gate of the temple. Raja chhatra Singh placed gilded pinnacles on the temple tops in 1678 as a reaction against the orders of Aurangzeb to demolish the temple. Later Rajas also added a shrine or two thus enriching the complex.
Champavati Temple
This temple is located behind the City Police Post and Treasury building. As mentioned earlier the temple was built by Raja Sahil Varman in memory of his daughter Champavati who is believed to have influenced her father to set-up Chamba at its present location. The temple is in the Shikhara style with elaborate stone carving and the wheel roof. The size of this temple is equivalent to the largest of Laxmi Narayan Temple.
Vajreshwari Temple
This ancient temple is believed to be 1000 years old and is dedicated to Devi Vajreshwari-Goddess of lightning. The temple is situated on the northern most corner of the town at the end of Jansali Bazaar. No historical record of the temple is available. The temple is built in the Shikhara style with wooden Chhattries and stands on the platform. The Shikhara of the temple is elaborately carved. There are two other minor temples on either side of the main shrine.
Sui Mata Temple
This temple can be divided into three parts which can physically spread apart. The temple of Sui Mata is on an elevation of Shah Madar Hill. A steep flight of steps comes down to a small pavilion just above the Saho road. From the Saho road the flight of steps continues down to the main town a little to the east of Chauntra Mohalla. At the end of the flight of steps there is another small pavilion with gargoyles with running water. The flight of stone steps to the aqueduct from the Sarota stream was built by Sarda, the Rani of Raja Jeet Singh (1794-1808). According to the legend when Raja Sahil Varman founded the town and made this aqueduct for water supply to the town the water refused to flow. It was ascribed to supernatural causes. It was prophasised that the spirit of the stream must be propitiated, and the Brahmins, on being consulted replied that the victim must either be the Rani or her son. Another tradition runs that the Raja himself had a dream in which he was directed to offer up his son, where upon the Rani pleaded to be accepted as a substitute. Thus on a appointed day the Rani along with her maidens was buried alive in a grave. The legend goes on to say that when the grave was filled in the water began to flow.
In memory of her devotion a small shrine was erected at that spot and mela called Sui Mata Ka Mela was also appointed to be held annually from 15th of Chait to the first of Baisakh. This fair is attended by women and children who in their best attire sing praises of the Rani and offer homage to the Rani for her singular sacrifice.
Chamunda Devi Temple
This temple is located on the spur of the Shah Madar Hill overlooking the town to its south east. The temple stands on a raised platform. The temple has artistic carvings on its lintel, pillars and the ceiling. Behind the main temple is a small shrine of Lord Shiva in the Shikhara style. There is another platform in front of this temple where two very old peepul trees provide shelter to the visitors. From this platform a bird's eye view of most of the land marks in the town including Chaugan, Circuit House, most of the temples and river Ravi can be had. The temple is being looked after by Archaeological Survey of India.
This temple can be approached by road from Chamba (3 kms). It lies on the right hand side of the Chamba-Jhamwar road. School going children and pilgrims prefer to take the flight of steps from Sapri to this temple. There steps were got constructed by Raja Raj Singh (1764-1794 AD).
The temple is an ideal picnic spot throughout the year because it has an easy approach and a commanding view.
Hari Rai Temple
This temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu and dates back to 11th century. It was probably built by Salabahana. This temple lies in the north-west corner of the main Chaugan, which had became the official entrance to the town by the end of 19th C. A steep path leads to the old Shitla bridge, which was constructed in the year 1894. The temple is built in Shikhara style and stands on a stone platform. The Shikhara of the temple is finely carved. This is one of the major old temples, which is away from the old township and the only one near the Chaugan.
Much of this temple is hidden behind some unimaginative structures of the British period behind the Gandhi Gate and the Fire Station Building. The Gandhi Gate was built in the year 1900 to welcome Lord Curzon, Viceroy. It is the only structure that has been coated with saffron colour and stands out because of its prominent colour.
The temple enshrines a marvellous bronze image of Lord Vishnu in the form of Chaturmurti. The temple of Hari Rai is believed to be of great antiquity and legend affirms that the Ravi once flowed in a shallow stream across the Chaugan and the temple had to be approached by stepping.
Akhand Chandi Palace
Construction of this residential building of the Chamba family was started by Raja Umed Singh sometimes between 1748-1764 AD. The place was rebuilt and renovated during the reign of Raja Sham Singh with the help of British engineers. The Darbar Hall (Marshal Hall) was built in 1879 by Capt. Marshal and the Zanana Mehal was added in the reign of Raja Bhuri Singh. The subsequent additions and alterations clearly betray the Mughal and the British influence. In 1958 the Palace building was sold by the descendants of the royal family to the Himachal Government. The latter handed it over to the Education Department for the purpose of starting a Government College and District Library. The beautiful structure of the palace with its painted walls and glass work, ceiling, intricate woodwork are fast deteriorating, since sufficient funds are not available for the maintenance of this monument. The palace has a commanding view of the Chaugan, Laxmi Narayana Temple, Sui Mata, Chamunda Devi Temple, Rang Mehal, Hari Rai Temple and Bansi Gopal Temple.
Rang Mahal
One of the largest monuments, Rang Mahal is located in Surara Mohalla. The foundation of Rang Mahal was laid by Raja Umed Sing (1748-1764). The super structure of RangMahal, which is in brick belongs to a later date with its southern portion built around 1860 by Raj Sri Singh. The architecture of Rang Mahal is an amalgam of Mughal and British styles. This palace was the residence for a branch of the ruling family. Its fort like looks justify its use as royal granary and treasury which is on its western side. Once the palace must have hummed with activity of busy servant and the frolics of the royal blood but now under the aegis of Handicrafts Department of the State Government, most of the rooms of this palace are being used as work-shops for making shoes, chapples and rumals. A number of decorative and colorful wall painting have been removed and taken to National Museum of Delhi. Some of the wall paintings and richly painted doors of the palace can be seen preserved in the Bhuri Singh Museum of Chamba.
Bhuri Singh Museum
Bhuri Singh Museum at Chamba opened formally on 14-09-1908, it is named after Raja Bhuri Singh who ruled Chamba from 1904 to 1919. Bhuri Singh donated his family collection of paintings to the museum. The idea to open a public museum came from J. Ph. Vogel, an eminent Indologist who was serving A.S.I. and who through an intensive exploration had discovered, read and analyzed old inscriptions dispersed far and wide in the territory of Chamba state. These inscriptions mostly in Sarda script shed important light on the mediaeval history of Chamba. The parasites of Sarahan, Devi-ri-kothi and mul Kihar are now preserved in the museum.
Paintings of Bhagwat Purana and Ramayana in peculiar style are inspired by Basohli idiom of painting whereas Krishna, Sudama, Rukmini vivah and Usha-Anirudh and portraits in prime Guler-Kangra style were executed by the artists who were patronized by the Chamba rulers. The embroidered Chamba-Rumals are related in style since their drawings were made by pahari painters though the embroidery was done by the household ladies.
Besides these major items of collections, there are coins, hill jewelry and costumes- both traditional and royal, arms and armour, musical instruments and various decorative objects.
The old museum building which merged well with the landscape of Chamba was pulled down and the present concrete monolith was inaugurated in 1975. The museum remains open from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM throughout the year except on Monday and other gazetted holidays.
Church of Scotland
Over the hundred years old this Church was founded by a mission of Church of Scotland. This Church is remarkable for its fine stone work and buttress and lancer arch windows. The Church was founded by its first missionary the Rev. William Ferqueen in Chamba from 1863 to 1873.
Art Garden / Minjar Camping Site
The proposed site is located at the entrance of the entrance of the town on the bed of Ravi river. This site has been built by the Department of tourism by making 3 lawns which has been covered with green grass and a good place for picnic also. Presently wall statue are being build on wells to depth the culture of Chamba which has recently been appreciated by the Minister of Tourism during his recent visit to Chamba from Tourism angle. There is a proposal to provide Restaurant facility in the vicinity. The site is approachable by road. One can have a charming view of the Ravi river flowing from the site. Particularly in the evening time during summer season.
Rock Garden At Devi Dehra
The proposed site is located on main road from Banikhet to Chamba at a distance of 10 kms from Banikhet. It is just near the Devi Dehhra temple and is located on both sides of the main road. In one site the Tourism Department have built 3 grasses lawns for use of the tourists. On other site there is a proposal to built a Café to the tune of Rs. 31 lakhs approximately to provide seating facilities to the tourists on way to Chamera reservoir and Chamba town. Besides this small picnic spots with green grass have been built up for use of the tourists. Not only this a small water fall by diverting a water kul has been constructed to attract more and more tourists. It has been noticed that the passing tourists are enjoying these picnic spot and water falls. With the passage of time the spot will become one of the picnic spot on way from Banikhet to Chamba and Chamera enable the tourists to stop over for at least a day. Thus after its completion the stay of tourists is expected to be extended by another one day, in Chamba Division.
Rajpura and the Famous Majar of Sai Jamal Shah
Rajpura is a small village located on Chamba-Tissa road at a distance of 10 kilometers from Chamba town. The village has gained significance owing to the location of majar of Sufi faquir called Sai Jamaal shah which is venerated with great religious fervor by both Hindus and Muslims. The majar comprises of four square brick pillars over which rests a slate conical roof with gables at each side. Every Thursday the people from Chamba and from places outside Chamba throng to this place to offer their prayers. A chadar is laid on the majar or floral tributes paid by the devotees.
Dayanand Math, Chamba
The Dayanand Math based on the principals of Arya Samaj is functioning in Chamba since 1970. Situated in once abandoned place called Julhakri, Dayanand Math was founded by Swami Sarvanand Maharaja of Punjab. The rems of the math were later handed over by Sarvanand Maharaja to his brilliant disciple Swami Sumedhanand.
Dayanand Math has since turned out to be a great religious centre. People from far and wide visit the place for their spiritual gratification. Swami Sumedhanand besides being a spiritual giant is a good administrator and the Math is progressing in its aim by leaps and bounds. The Math has to its credit, a Sanskrit college, a school called Adarash Bal Vidyalaya, an Ayurvedic Pharmacy and a Vedic library.
Chowari Jot (Chowari Pass)
Chowaari jot is located almost midway between Chamba and Chowari. On one side of Chowari road is nature's wonder Khajjiar and on the other is Kainthli Dhar full of deoder and kail trees. Its altitude from main sea level is 8000 feet. It snows heavily in winter but it is quite pleasant in summer. The blossoming rhododendron fill the place with beatitude in April-May. The Gujjars/Gaddis generally use this route while migrating to and from plains. The nature seems to be at its best. Apart from sightseeing the place is idel for treeking. A beautiful view of sun set is obtained from this place. It is a shortest route from Pathankot to Chamba. The place is located at a distance of 18 kilometres from chowari and Chamba respectively.