South Garo Hills district General information

The South Garo Hills district lies in the southern part of the state of Meghalaya, and was created on 18th June, 1992 . The district is hilly with difficult terrain with its headquarter at Baghmara, the only town in the district. The district is situated between 25˚10’ and 25˚35’N latitudes and 90˚15 and 91˚-0’ E longitude. It covers an area of 1887 sq. Km. It is bounded in the North by East Garo Hills, in the East by the west Khasi Hills district, in the West by West Garo Hills district and in the South by Bangladesh.
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History

The contact between the British and the Garos started towards the close of the 18th Century after the British East India Company had secured the Diwani of Bengal from the Mughal Emperor. Consequently, all the estates bordering upon Garo Hills, which for all practical purposes had been semi-independent were brought under the control of the British. Though political control had passed from the Mughals to the British, the latter, like Mughals, had no desire to control the Estates or their tributaries directly. The Zamindars were not disturbed in the internal management of their estates. In fact, they were entrusted, as they had been by the Mughals, with the responsibility of keeping the hill Garos in check with help of their retainers. Thus in the beginning, the intermittent conflict between the Zamindars and the Garos went on unabated until the situation deteriorated to the extent that the British were forced to take notice. This development led ultimately to the annexation of the Garo Hills in 1873. Captain Williamson was the first Deputy Commissioner of the unified district. The district was bifurcated into two districts viz. East Garo Hills and West Garo Hills districts in October 1979.The West Garo Hills district was further divided into two administrative districts of West and South Garo Hills on June 1992. The district headquarters of South  Garo Hills is Baghmara.

Flora

The tropical vegetation covers areas upto an elevation of about 1,000m. The majority of the forest fall in this zone.

It embraces evergreen, semi-evergreen and deciduous forests, bamboo thickets and grasslands including riparian forests and swamps. These forests mainly consists of Shorea robusta and in certain area Tectona grandis has also been introduced. The tallest trees are Schima wallichii, Terminalia belirilia belirica, Engelhardtia spicata, Aesculus assamica, Aporusa wallichii, Bridelia retusa, Cryptocarya andersonii, Talauma hodgsonii, Lagerstroemia parviflora, Gmelina arborea etc.

Miliusa velutina, Hibiscus macrocarpus, Zizyphus rugosa, Helicia robusta, Engelhardtia spicata var. Colebrooliana and Ficus prostrata etc. form the lower canopy. The main components of Shrubby species are – Capparis zeylanica, Garcinia lancifolia, Bauhinia acuminata, Mimosa himalayayana, Acacia Concinna, Mussaenda Roxburghii, Eupatorium Modiflorum, Solanum Kurzii and Phlogacanthus tubiflorus etc. In a few areas, numerous lianas intertwining the trees e.g. Dysolobium grande, Mucuna bracteata, Fissistigma wallichii, Paederia scanders, Solena heterophylla and Aristolocjia saccata are prominent. Rarely, Aristolochia cathcartii may be seen in certain forests. Several species of bamboo stretch for long distances forming thickets of secondary vegetation without any competition.

A few palms like Areca, Caryota, Pinanga and Didymosperma are also conspicuous. The ground flora in deciduous forests is very poor and seasonal, while in evergreen forests, species of Alpinia, Amomum, Colocasia, Costus, Hedychium etc are not uncommon. The epiphytic climbers viz. Rhaphidophora spp., members of Gesneriaceae, Hoya app. With beautiful bunches of star like flowers and stem parasites of Loranthaceae and total root parasite Cuscuta reflexa are also seen. A few species of epiphytic orchids are seen in the evergreen forests but they show less species diversity. The herbaceous vegetation is less profuse and includes the members of Oxalidaceae, Balsaminanceae, Acanthaceae, Leeaceae, Fabaceae, Asteraceae and Poaceae. Ferns and fern-allies, liverworts and mosses etc. are also seen on old tree trunks and stones etc. near water sources, in shady places. Due to excessive ‘Jhum’ practice most of the forest areas are cleared and secondary monoculture forests of Shorea robusta established. In more or less open moist localities and near water sources, herbs like Dictyospermum, Aneilema Scaberrimum, Burmania Sp., Coiictyospermum, Aneilema Scaberrimum, Burmania Sp., Coix sp. Cyprus spp., Oxalis Corniculate, Anemone spp. and Ericcaulon can be seen.

Fauna

Different varieties of birds like the White-crested Laughing Thrush, Scarlet Minivet, Black-headed Oriole, Cockoo-shrike, Green Barbet, Chloropsis, Green Himalayan Barbet, White–capped Redstart, Magpie Robin, Yellow Bulbul, Brown Fish Owl, Bee-Eaters, Serpent Eagle, Hill Myna, Pied Myna, Grey-headed Sibia, Slaty-headed Scimitar Babbler as well as various species of Hornbills, Nightjars, Egrets, Parrots, Swallow-Shrikes have also been reported.

 Reptile fauna include different varieties of lizards, snakes, turtle/tortoises. Different species of lizards, geckos and skinks include Calotes Emma, C. Maria, C. Versicolor, Cnemaspis Jerdoni, Cytodac Tylus Khasiensis, Cosymbotus Platyrus, Hemidactylus Brooki, H. Frenatus, Gekko Gecko, Japalura Planidorsata etc.

Different species of snakes include Blind snakes, Indian Gamma, Checkered Keelback, Red necked Keelback and others. Important poisonous species include Indian Cobra and Vipers.

Culture

 Legend has it that the Garos originally inhabited a province of Tibet named Torua and left Tibet for some reason in the distant past under the leadership of the legendary Jappa-Jalimpa and Sukpa-Bongepa. They wandered in the Brahmaputra valley at the site of present day Jogighopa in Assam and gradually moved up the Assam valley for centuries in search of a permanent home. In the process, they survived the ordeals of wars and persecutions at the hand of the kings ruling the valley.

They then branched out into a number of sub-tribes, and the main body under the legendary leader, Along Noga, occupied Nokrek, the highest peak in Garo Hills. A'Chik is the general title used for the various groups of people after the division of the race. The title is used to denote different groups such as the Ambeng, Atong, Akawe (or Awe), Matchi, Chibok, Chisak Megam or Lyngngam, Ruga, Gara-Ganching who inhabit the greater portion of the present Garo Hills. But the name applies also to the groups of Garos scattered at the neighbouring places in Assam, Tripura, Nagaland and Mymensing in Bangladesh.

Though the main feature of their traditional political setup, social institutions, marriage systems, inheritance of properties, religion and beliefs are common, it is observed that as these units were isolated from one another, they have developed their own separate patterns. They also speak different dialects. Also their traditional songs, dances, music differ from each other. The song, dances and music are mostly associated with traditional religious functions and ceremonies.

The Garos have a matrilineal society where children adopt their mother clan. The simplest pattern of Garo family consists of the husband, wife and children. The family increases with the marriage of the heiress, generally the youngest daughter. She is called Nokna and her husband Nokrom. The bulk of family property is bequeathed upon the heiress and other sisters receive fragments but are entitled to use plots of land for cultivation and other purposes. The other daughters go away with their husbands after their marriage to form a new and independent family. This aspect of family structure remains the same even in urban areas.

The Garo household utensils are simple and limited.

They consists mainly of cooking pots, large earthen  vessels for brewing liquor, the pestle and the mortal with which paddy is husked. They also use bamboo baskets of different shapes and sizes.
The Garos have their own weapons. One of the principal weapons is two-edges sword called Milam made of one piece of iron form hilt to point. There is a cross-bar between the hilt and the blade where attached a bunch of cow’s tail-hair. Other types of weapons are shields, Spear, Bows and Arrows, Axes, Daggers etc.

Religion

Christian work inside Garo Hills having started about 1878 with the American Baptists who had, however, started their work among Garos in Goalpara since 1867. The Roman Catholics began their work in the plains areas first around 1931 -32, following it up with the establishment of a base atTura (1933); since then it has extended to other parts of the Garo Hills.
         Between 1961 and 1971 the number of people returned as Songsarek underwent a decline and it would appear that their decrease has largely been due to the advance of Christianity. It can indeed be stated that the vast majority of Garos profess only these two beliefs that is , they are either Songsarek or Christian.
         In earlier works on the Garos, as indeed on all the tribes of the North-East, the tenn Animism , was applied to the tribal faiths. This was perhaps oversimplification of a complex subject. It is true that much of Garo religious practices relate to Nature. They attribute the creation of the world to the Godhead, Tatara-Rabuga. Next in rank but more intimately concerned with human affairs is Saljong, who is the source of all gifts to mankind. He is honoured with the Wangala celebrations. Another benign deity is Chorabudi, the protector of crops. The first fruits of the fields are offered to him. He is also honoured with a pig sacrifice whenever sacrifices are offered to Tatara-Rabuga.
          Living so close to Nature, the early Garo people the world around them with a multitude of spirits called mite, some of them good and some of them capable of harming human beings for any lapses they might commit. Appropriate sacrifices are offered to them as occasions demand.
          In all religious ceremonies, sacrifices were essential for the propitiation of the spirits. They had to be invoked for births, marriages, deaths, illness, besides for the good crops and welfare of the community and for protection from destructions and dangers. Like the Hindus, the Garos used to show reverence to the ancestors by offering food to the departed souls and by erection of memorial stones.
          Like other religions, the Songsarek religion ascribes to every human being the possession of a spirit that remains with him throughout his lifetime and leaves the body at death. There appears to be a belief in reincarnation, people being reborn into a lower or higher form of life according to their conduct in their lifetime. The greatest blessing a Garo looks forward to is to be reborn as a human being in his or her original ma'chong or family unit.
         Garo society is entirely casteless.

Tourist Place

 There are several places in the district  that can be  developed for tourism. Some of them are of historical importance;  others are important because of their association with the cultural traditions of the Garo people and many of them again have deservedly earned fame for their scenic beauty. Much of the area still remain untouched, retaining almost intact the original flora and fauna.  Garo hills known for its abundance of wild life, should interest naturalists and photographers to capture the facts of life of animals and the flora and fauna.
        Two mountain ranges - The Arebella range and the Tura range, passes through the Garo Hills, forming the  great Balpakaram Valley in between.
Balpakram National Park

          A national  wild life park, is about 45 kms from Baghmara, also known as the abode of perpetual winds. An awe-inspiring mini-canyon separates the Garo Hills plateau from the Khasi-Hills plateau across the Sib-bari rivulet. A majestic rocky plateau crowns the western ridge of the cliffs on the Garo Hills side of the mini-canyon.
         The plateau commands an enchanting view of the beautiful plains of Bangladesh which are criss crossed by meandering rivers and large expanses of silvery inland water. The plateau has borne the unending lashes of summer wind and storm which have blown off all traces of soil, leaving the plateau as one continuous mass of rock and rubble. The Garos believe that on death, the soul of every pious Garo flies to Balpakram and abides there for all time to come, making it the abode of human souls.
          The Balpakram plateau and canyon abound in plants and herbs of immense medicinal value, besides being the home of all sorts of wild animals including wild bison, wild cow and elephants. Government has since created the Balpakram National Park stretching over an area of approximately two hundred and twenty square kilometres, covering the plateau. The National Park can be approached by taking off from the Baghmara-Moheshkhola-Ranikor-Balut-Shil-  long Road, at a place called Sib-bari.
          During April each year, the entire Balpakram plateau is covered by exquisitely colourful wild flowers and swarms of colourful and beautiful butterflies, making it a veritable dreamland.
          Balpakram has many mysterious and unnatural phenomena that cannot be satisfactorily explained by modern science and logic.


Boldak Matchu Karam:  
         On the wayside there is a sturdy Boldak tree (schimawalliche) that has a mysterious depression around its trunk as if eroded by the constant tethering of animals on it. The Garos believe that the spirits of the dead tie their animals slaughtered for their funeral to this tree while taking a rest close by hence when one such tree was felled by strong winds, soon after another tree close by started having the same symptoms.

Chidimak:  
         There is small pool in Balpakram which is absolutely charcoal black. It is believed that the spirits of the dead wash and clean themselves here before entering the realms of the dead. Hence the clear water turned black from their sins and soots of cremation.

Matchru:  
         Anti or Animal market. In the heart of the vast plateau there is a big stretch of flat rocks that is full of foot prints of all kinds of animals big and small. It is not understood how only that stretch of rock has thousands and thousands of footprints embedded there whereas the nearby rocks are completely bereft of such prints. Myth logically of course it is said that it used to be a market place where all kind of animals gather for their weekly markets.

Areng Patal:  
         It is a massive rock with a hollow space on its surface that is believed to have powerful magnetic powers. This hollow space acts as a veritable death trap to any bird or animal (except for man of course) that goes near it. Any living being that goes near it is magnetically drawn towards the hollow from where it can never come out and die eventually.

Goncho Dare:
          The rock cliffs of the canyon are said to be the natural habitats of gonchos, the evil spirits who like to take away people from their homes. These gonchos lead their victims over steep precipices and inaccessible rock faces without causing any physical harm.

Dikkini Ring:
         To the southern side near Mahadeo village there stands a massive flat rock in the shape of an upturned boat. It is said that one night when Dikki, a legendary hero was making this boat, the cocks started crowing before completed the task and hence the uncompleted boat turned to stone. The legend says that spirits work only at night and have to complete their works before cocks crow.

Rongsaljong Agal:
          On the South Garo and Khasi  Hills border there is a very interesting rock tank that is  120 ft long and 90 ft wide. Interesting side of it is that the water here remains perpetually clear and transparent, also it remains at the same level throughout the year. It is surprising that heavy down pours of rain cannot raise its level or the scorching heat of summer reduce it. The Garos believed that it used to be the bathing ghat of Bandi's wife Shore. Her bucket of water fossilized into stone remains in that place.

Rongsobok Rongkol:  
          Further east to the northern side of Balpakram  there is a beautiful cave that contains shining pieces of rock that resemble banana flowers.
          Apart from the above mentioned sites there are many mysterious places which you can explore yourself. Indeed Balpakram is so steeped in myths that even the Hindus believe that it is a sacred place. They believe that when Laxman was seriously injured during the war with Ravana and a very rare life saving herb was required, Hanuman found it here but not knowing which plant to take also in his haste to return broke the top of the hills and carried it away. The missing portion of that hill became a deep awning canyon .
          Balpakram has been declared  a National Park some years ago. This place is about 220 sq kms in area and  is 45 kms away from  Baghmara. This is a place of not only mythological importance but also the natural habitat of many rare and exotic animals and plant life . It is also believed to be the original of the rare citrus plant Me- mang Narag .  Balpakram is exquisitely  beautiful when ground orchids and herbs are in bloom. The best time to  see is from April to mid June. There is the guest house at Hattisil entrance to Balpakram run by the Forest Department.
Siju Cave
          The third longest cave in the Indian sub-continent, it is situated on the bank of the Simsang river just below the village of Siju. The cave is locally known as Dobakkol or the Cave of Bats. The cave consists of innumerable internal chambers and labyrinths which have not yet been fully explored. The depth of the cave is yet to be fathomed although cave-explorers are reported to have so far covered depths of over a kilometer. The cave is totally dark with a perennial stream flowing out of it ,which abounds with different forms of aquatic life. The floor of the cave is covered with a very thick layer of bat-droppings. Beautiful stalactites and stalagmites are found all over the cave.
          30 kms. North of Baghmara, Siju is famous for Dobakkol or the bat cave with impressive stalagmites and stalagtites. It is one of the longest cave in the Indian sub-continent and contains some of the finest river passages to be found any where in the world. The magnificent limestone rock formations inside especially named princes Di's chamber by the excavators will fill any visitor with awe.
           Close by on the other side of Simsang River Siju bird sanctuary is the home for many rare and protected bird and other wildlife. The migratory Siberian ducks also come here during winter months. At the entrance to this bird sanctuary after a steep climb of nearly 1 km there is a stretch of fantastic rock formations that will take your breath away.